Please find the follow-up of my build here. Last time I started with the actual build, now I shall tell you how I continued.

I intend to have an installation that does not require any future opening of the 2 fuselage halves. So I thought of using servo extension wires and lead all 8 channels forward.

I got into a dilemma: should I use one lead for the ESC even or not? I checked how the ESC lead would connect to the extension wire and was not 100% sure of the connection. So I went for directly plugging the ESC into receiver. That connection is solid. It would be a pity to lose the model do to a sloppy electrical connection.

I numbered the leads so that I can see which cable corresponds to which channel. Beautiful handmade numbering, of course 🙂

I added some ballast weight in the rear. My experienced RC colleague raised this point to me, very important indeed! As I plan to have FPV gear in the front the plane will get nose heavy. So it is better to have weight in the tail and compensate with extra weight in the nose until I replace the front ballast with FPV gear. I am not sure if I did enough in the tail but more than nothing.

The receiver is going to sit on velcro tape. This will secure it to left side fuselage half. I tested the extra strong adhesive velcro on canopy to see if it will “eat” the foam (if it will get into reaction with the foam, to formulate this nicer). It did damage it, so I used my non-adhesive velcro and epoxy.

I taped together the fuselage halves and checked if my ESC wire is proper length. Guess what: Murphy worked again and it is too long. The ESC will get too far from the motor. I had to cut the wires and resolder (“sodder” for US 🙂 )  the connectors. By-the-way I can see some marginal improvement in my soldering skills, although I am not really a soldering Paganini or similar…

There is a V-shaped cut in the fuselage, this will enable the cables to be routed in a channel. So when the canopy is attached they will not interfere. When I will have FPV stand there the cables can run behind that similarly. I hope this will work. If yes we might call this a great idea even 🙂

Using the wing joiner rod I try to test mount the tail. It should be parallel to the main wings. There is a slight angle, I will try to correct this during the epoxy hardening process.

I glued on the tail, connected pushrods to stabilizers. Mounting test, everything is put together. Servos connected, motor is NOT connected. This is quite important, a live motor can be dangerous, only plug in your motor when you are sure of it.

Next picture shows my amazingly low budget balancing stand. I forgot how much those mineral water bottles cost, but since my wife buys them anyhow I could consider their purchasing cost zero in my modelling perspective. I had to fill them up though, so some water cost is there. Water is needed to stability, the bottles sit more solid this way.

I put the model onto the bottle caps and aligned them so that the center point will get 5 mm in front of rear seam of wing joiner cover. The manual shows this very clearly, you can check it there.

The manual of this model is truly excellent, the germans did great job with the design.

I had the battery in the nose (all the way to the front) and checked if it is easy to nudge the model out of balance. It was sitting quite okay. So I could clear the preliminary balancing.

Then I took the model on my fingertips and tried to balance it so. This is more accurate since the water bottle has a flat cap and my fingers are more round. (If somebody is suspicious: I am not showing fingers to anybody, no offense meant there…)

The video recording of all this can be viewed here, please.

I will need to put some coins in the nose as well, they will be standing in until my FPV gear will get sorted out. This concludes my balancing.

Best regards,

Sir Crash a Lot